See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Drunk from magnum (which saw tirage under natural cork), Billecart's 1996 Brut Grande Cuvée is showing beautifully, offering up aromas of fresh and confit citrus mingled with crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, oystershell and honeycomb. It's medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with racy acids and a concentrated core of fruit, complemented by a pinpoint mousse. This is one of the most fully realized 1996 Champagnes I've tasted recently: if only this vaunted vintage had more uniformly attained such heights.

Yet another dramatic example of bottle variation! The first bottle of this retired cuvée (see Assorted posh champagnes ) was absolutely stunning with both throat-warming impact and precise refreshment value but the second bottle was more austere with less fruit and more acidity. The score splits the difference. (JR)