Bollinger's 2002 Vieilles Vignes Françaises isn't really Champagne, nor is it a wine. Rather it is an extraordinary and frankly addicting concoction all its own. Endowed with the most refined mousse imaginable and endless layers of fruit, the 2002 VVF captivates both the hedonistic and intellectual senses to the fullest. It is a wine of breathtaking elegance that keeps getting better and better in the glass. Waves of subtle red fruit, smoke, mint and incense appear to be virtually endless, but at the same time, it is the wine's textural richness that stands out the most. Readers fortunate to have the discretionary income needed to purchase the 2002 VVF should not hesitate. It is a once in a lifetime treat for most mortals.

A superb vintage, with warm, dry conditions promoting ripening and cool nights helping retain acidity. This vintage still contained fruit from the ungrafted vines in Bouzy, and Bollinger waited until 20 September to pick (nearly a week later than everyone). After fermentation in cask and eight years ageing under cork, the wine was dosed at 4g/L to produce this momentous wine, a true show stopper. At this point, it is starting to open well, with notes of ripe apricot and quince, toasted brioche, and marzipan – there is a near-perfect evolution, with nothing over the top. Should last forever.