The first vintage as a pure Aÿ because the phylloxera attacked the unprotected parcelle in Bouzy. Sad in itself, but for the wine rather a profit. Even fewer bottles and this difficult little flat and excessively obese vintage ought to be a disappointment. The reality was different. The highly expressive and intense aroma is similar to the monumental ’96 at the same age and we’re dealing with a really great vintage of VVF. The Aÿ-aroma shines indeed clearer than usually and the fresh and clear acidity present along with a magnificent grand aromatic spectrum. While it offers so much already, a restrained overall dark-energy of power is ready to be unleashed. The only question mark is whether the decision to make the vintage of a wine without dosage can disrupt the storage potential when I see a couple of grams of sugar as necessary as a conserver to slow down the oxidation in the long run.

A ripe, somewhat damp year produced lush results – Bollinger waited until 22 September to harvest. The ungrafted Pinot Noir from these two small plots in Aÿ delivered a wine with aromas of ripe pear, marzipan and bread dough. No dosage was added in order to preserve freshness, and yet the texture is silky, rich and almost voluptuous. This wine will be ready to drink sooner than most vintages of VVF, but may not be a vintage for the long haul.