Disgorged in 2019, Bollinger’s 2009 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises offers a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and beeswax, mingling with notes of candied orange zest and pastries. On the palate, it is full-bodied, layered and vinous, revealing a core of concentrated fruit that gives way to a long, enveloping finish with Pinot Noir phenolics emerging gracefully. Enjoyed on its own, the 2009 leaves little to be desired—but when compared directly with the more expressive and harmonious 2004, the choice of which glass to refill first becomes instantly apparent. Given the small production volumes of Vieilles Vignes Françaises, revisiting this rendition in the future may prove challenging. However, for those fortunate enough to possess a bottle, my advice is to wait until 2030 before opening it, in order to experience it at its fullest expression.

Bollinger’s 2009 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is tightly wound and reserved, which is quite surprising given the warm, dry weather of the vintage. That won’t be a problem in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. With a few hours of air, apricot, plum, spice, dried cherry and candied orange peel start to appear, but the 2009 remains rather taut. In some years, VVF can be quite opulent, 2002 and 2010 come to mind. The 2009, on the other hand is much more vibrant. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. VVF remains one of the most compelling wines – still or sparkling – in the world. It emerges from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in Aÿ’s Chaudes Terres and Clos St. Jacques lieu-dits and is vinified and aged in barrel. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. (Originally published in August 2020)