A sublime vintage for Grande Année, the growing season in 1996 produced wines with prodigious ripeness and yet surprisingly crisp acidity. This freshness is balanced by a dominance (70%) of Pinot Noir from the grand crus of the Montagne de Reims fermented in cask. This has matured exceptionally well, with aromas of tarte Tatin evolving now with hints of truffle and smoke. On the palate, the surprisingly firm acidity and substantial extract carry this to a lingering, dynamic finish. There are still decades of ageing possible here – should you have the patience to wait.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity than it does in the middle palate. This boasts the near-freakish combination of high ripeness and high acidity shared by the best '96s. Builds and builds on the back; one must practically scrape this off the palate. A worthy follow-up to the '95, and likely to develop in bottle for a couple of decades.

Deep gold. The first bottle tasted much older than 1996 and had rather a shortage of fruit and a very dry finish. It wasn't particularly fizzy either. A second bottle, from the same case, was very much better with much more carbon dioxide, fruit and energy. Racy, even a little creamy. Definite evolution on the nose and still a pretty dry finish. Better than some of the most austere 1996s but not absolutely glorious. (JR)