Disgorged in November 2019 with seven grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's new NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN VZ15 is based on the 2015 vintage, with reserve wines dating back to 2009, and derives largely from the village of Verzenay. Offering up aromas of green pear, honeycomb, rye toast, candied peel and buttery pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and enveloping, with a creamy attack, fine depth at the core and ripe but racy acids, complemented by a pinpoint mousse. This is a charming, gourmand and elegantly balanced Blanc de Noirs that represents a fine addition to the Bollinger portfolio.

Pinot Noir comes mainly from the commune of Tauxières. The base wine is from 2017 and the oldest wine in the blend is from 2006. A deep honey colour for a champagne. Very seductive nose with considerable apparent evolution on it. Much more youthful on the palate than the nose suggests and some dried apple-skin notes on the bone-dry, impressively persistent finish. Very much in the house style. A worthy successor to previous cuvées of this wine, with its own personality. (JR)