From a bottle disgorged in 2014, Bollinger's 1973 Extra-Brut R. D. is drinking brilliantly—indeed, this is the second time that, tasting it blind, I have mistaken it for the 1979! This is bursting with aromas of yellow orchard fruit, smoke, buttered toast and mandarin, with hints of forest floor and caramel emerging as it sits in the glass. Full-bodied, pillowy and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, with lively acids and an ample, enveloping core of fruit that's enlivened by a delicate pinpoint mousse. This brilliant wine represents the quintessence of the Bollinger style. A Pinot Noir-dominant vintage, including only 30% Chardonnay, the 1973 drew on only 16 of the 20 villages that typically inform this bottling, reflecting late-season disease pressure.

This wine was served from magnum at the wedding of Charles and Di. Majority Pinot Noir. This bottle disgorged 2014.  From Jeroboam. Lightly toasty, intense citrus, with orange-like intensity. Lightly honeyed but it tastes really dry thanks to the very high acidity. Honeyed and toasty on the finish, with a spicy feel to the texture. Somehow manages to be both gentle/poised and intense, with citrus fruit re-emerging on the finish. Gets better and better in the glass. (JH)