2020 Cedric Bouchard, Roses de Jeanne Cote de Val Vilaine

In the late 1990s, ex-sommelier and visionary Cedric Bouchard took over his father’s vines in the Côte des Bar and established Champagne Roses de Jeanne in 2000. Since the beginning, he embraced single vineyard, single variety, single vintage, 0 dosage Champagnes, all farmed organically. This 2020 Pinot Noir was sourced from the 1.49ha parcel of Val Vilaine in the neighbouring commune of Polisy (hence, the VV in the label). Originally planted in 1974 by Cedric’s father, the vines are 40+ years and grow on bands of Kimmeridgian limestone. The fruit was foot-trodden, and native fermented in tank before heading to bottle and 16 months sur lattes. Beauty structure and presence, with a rimrod limestone backbone basing white cherry, lemon, dried crushed flowers, with a subtle effervescence streaming this to a chalky finish. Certainly not your typical Champagne (blending everything imaginable) this is a very special and singular terroir wine to seek out. (Treve Ring).

The 2020 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is pretty rich and heady. The Val Vilaine is typically pretty appealing in its youth; this is a rare vintage I would be tempted to cellar, such is its richness. Dried pear, spice, crushed flowers and chamomile are amplified. I don't think I have ever tasted a Val Vilaine with this much sheer density. What a wine! Disgorged: 2022.