Disgorged in November 2017 after 13 years on the lees, the stunning 2004 Blanc des Millénaires is a worthy successor to the 1995. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of green apple, pear, brioche and fresh pastry that are framed by a lovely smoky, autolytic top note, the wine is full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with ripe acids, superb depth at the core and a textural, vinous quality while remaining very classical in profile. The finish is long and expansive. A blend of Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus, it saw nine grams per liter dosage. This is a terrific blanc de blancs from Charles Heidsieck that has a long and glorious future ahead of it. Sadly, the price of this cuvée has finally caught up with the quality.

The 2004 Blanc des Millenaires offers a striking combination of freshness and the complexity that develops in bottle. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper lend aromatic brilliance to this lithe, super-finessed Blanc des Blancs. I have long adored the 2004s from the Côtes des Blancs. The Blanc des Millenaires is another terrific example that shows just how good the best wines of the year are.