Medium lemon-straw colour. Intensely fragrant nose with aromas of jasmine, cinnamon buttered toast, stewed apples and preserved ginger. Concentrated honey-nut, warm apple tart and spice flavours fill the mouth giving ample flesh to the firm, fine structure. The bubbles are still remarkably frisky and, in harmony with the crisp backbone of acid, make for a relatively youthful, elegant and exquisitely balanced wine. Very long finish. Drink now to 2015. Tasted December 2008.

The profoundly rich 1990 Dom Perignon is a creamy-textured, full styled offering that loses none of its elegance in spite of its flavor authority. It will improve for 5-10 years, and appears capable of surpassing the fabulous 1985 and 1982.

Very youthful and elegant with typical Dom Pérignon finesse. It will be a pleasure to follow the internal development of the '88 and '90. A great debut for Richard Geoffroy! Toasty coffee aromas in magnum, and like a great Chablis grand cru in regular bottle.

The profoundly rich 1990 Dom Perignon is a creamy-textured, full styled offering that loses none of its elegance in spite of its flavor authority. It will improve for 5-10 years, and appears capable of surpassing the fabulous 1985 and 1982. It seems obvious that the quality of the 1990 Champagne vintage is going to be remarkable, and the world-wide demand will be unprecedented. The message - buy them now! Importer: Schieffelin & Somerset, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8337.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

A moderate greeny/gold hue with a mousse, languid rather than lively. The nose is certainly developing a smorgasbord of secondary aromas: hay bales, cut grass, a touch of clear honey and lanolin. The palate is well balanced, perhaps a little low in acidity for my liking, but comes across elegant and harmonious. The mid-palate is more pear, a little grassy perhaps but the finish is more citrus fruits and a faint tang of lanolin and petrol. Drinking perfectly now. Tasted June 2007. Drinking now-2015

Fully mature, very rich nose. It was served blind and I guessed it was even older than 1990. Toasty nose and then frisky on the palate. Notably dry finish after quite a sweet palate. Into the phase of tasting like quince. Pungent. Very interesting. (JR)