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An absolutely fabulous, great, broad-shouldered costume with juicy exotic fruitiness and an almost 76-like sensation of essence and fullness of body. A real fruit bomb that is going to give pleasure to many generations of wine-lovers. The funny thing is that this wine does not have even a trace of Dom Pérignon's typically toasted character as yet, despite its sweet mellowness. The most important explanation for this is probably the brief time since being disgorged, but also, paradoxically enough, the wine's gorgeous oiliness that makes it difficult for the toasted aromas to elbow their way out.

In the Cellar March, 2009 The 1999 Dom Perignon is a little flabbier than the 2000. Smoke, toastiness, tar and ripe fruit emerge from the glass in a generous, expansive style. The 1999 offers more body than the 2000 but the aromas and flavors are less well-articulated. This is a relatively simple Dom Perignon, yet the wine possesses outstanding balance and plenty of harmony. According to Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy the warm vintage also resulted in relatively high yields, and the low-acid style is most reminiscent of the 1976. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Smoke, toastiness, tar and ripe fruit emerge from the glass in a generous, expansive style. The 1999 offers more body than the 2000 but the aromas and flavors are less well-articulated. This is a relatively simple Dom Perignon, yet the wine possesses outstanding balance and plenty of harmony. According to Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy the warm vintage also resulted in relatively high yields, and the low-acid style is most reminiscent of the 1976. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. (93)

Green-tinted gold. Tightly wound lime and pink grapefruit aromas open slowly to reveal a gently smoky mineral and floral character, with a light kiss of green cardamom adding interest. Very fresh on the palate, with youthful citrus and green apple flavors giving way to slightly riper blood orange and pear. Finishes firm and dry, with serious grip. This only hints at its potential, and I'd advise anyone drinking it for what's in the bottle rather than on the label to stash it away for at least another five years, minimum.

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1999 Dom Pérignon is a little flabbier than the 2000. Smoke, toastiness, tar and ripe fruit emerge from the glass in a generous, expansive style. The 1999 offers more body than the 2000 but the aromas and flavors are less well-articulated. This is a relatively simple Dom Pérignon, yet the wine possesses outstanding balance and plenty of harmony. According to Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy the warm vintage also resulted in relatively high yields, and the low-acid style is most reminiscent of the 1976.

1999 was a warmer vintage in the mould of 2009, producing a large crop after a slightly rainy end of season. Picking time, as always, was essential, its timing dictated by the long view and the need to adopt a prescient approach. This wine, for all the reputation of the vintage, is surprisingly steely at first before the vista broadens to reveal figs, quince and orange groves. The flinty, almost saline character is recaptured at the back, affording symmetrical harmony and no shortage of satisfaction. Served from magnum.

Magnum. Richard Geoffroy thought initially it was a bit blah and lacking density – too obvious, perhaps. Disgorged nearly 10 years earlier than the P2 2000. Much more evolved nose than the P2 2000 just tasted. Fully mature, nutty nose. Round and approachable. Difficult to spit. (JR)