This is a DP that shows the ripeness of the 2009 vintage yet remains full of energy. Gorgeous aromas of cream, apple, mango, honeysuckle, and chalk follow through to a full body and super fine, tight texture. Dense and agile. Vinous. It’s like a top grand cru white Burgundy. Think Batard-Montrachet. More depth than the 2006. Drink now.

The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness. Above all else, the 2009 is a gorgeous Champagne to drink now and over then next few decades. This is the first time in the house’s history that a vintage was not released sequentially.

Aromas of fresh brioche, green pear, waxy citrus rind, iodine and subtly autolytic top notes mingle in an inviting bouquet, introducing the 2009 Dom Pérignon. It's a medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy wine that's rich and textural, with good concentration and lively acids despite being the ripest rendition in the history of this cuvée. As I wrote earlier this year, while the wine is open and enveloping, there's also enough energy and structure here to promise good mid-term aging potential, something that becomes more apparent as the wine loses a little puppy fat. WK

Just being released. Very pale, very youthful nose. Lots of zest and freshness. Introvert and tight. But approachable in terms of texture. The flavour is not fully formed yet but it’s already a pleasure to drink from the point of view of balance, presumably thanks to the relatively low acidity. Light hint of bitterness on the end. Length. Palate-enrobing! Lovely texture.