The most impressive of the evening's head-to-head pairings was that between the 1995 and 1996, the yin and yang of recent vintages. The former is maybe riper, warmer and more cavalier, the latter more cerebral. This '95 stuns with its ripe and forward personality, displaying power, energy and gastronomic potential. It's a symphony of ripe fruit, creamy texture and a savoury end-game. Perfectly 'à point' and perfectly delicious.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The 1995 Dom Pérignon P2 is in great shape today. Lemon confit, orange blossom, honey, hazelnut, smoke, chamomile and buttery notes infuse the 1995 P2. Ample, generous and resonant on the palate, the 1995 has a lot to offer. I would prefer to drink it over the next 10-15 years, as the 1995 doesn't look like it has the depth or freshness to be an especially long-lived wine, by Dom Pérignon standards.

Broad nose. So complete and savoury with a certain sweetness on the palate. Very easy to like. Like the P1 in a corset. Dry finish. All potential rather than actuality. (JR)