See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The 1998 Dom Pérignon P2 is open and beautifully expressive today. Unusually open for a young P2, the 1998 drinks well upon release, especially compared to the 1996, which was virtually unapproachable for the first few years after release. That is not at all the case with the 1998, which is quite open at this stage. Hints of apricot, almond, white flowers and chamomile add texture on the fleshy, resonant finish. The added time on the lees has given the P2 an added dimension of texture.

Pale gold. Intense, mineral-tinged citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with a suave jasmine nuance adding complexity. Smoky and penetrating on the palate, offering vibrant orange, anise and toasted brioche flavors and a touch of poached pear. Shows outstanding clarity and power on the mineral-driven finish, which clings with remarkable tenacity and resonating florality. This late-release bottling was formerly called Oenotheque; P2 stands for Plenitude Two.

Geoffroy advises that in 1998 too many growers picked early after a very hot August, worried by the rain that had been forecast. The rain came, but Geoffroy waited, and the gamble paid off. The 1998 has balance rather than dilution, complexity rather than compromise, excellence in all things. For all that, the personality of the wine majors on fruit rather than minerality, with pineapple, almond, frangipani and even a little mango. Arcimboldo would make a very complete painting with all this fruit. There's a lick of toffee on the finish, maybe mocha; a soupçon of sweetness at the end of the meal.

Richard Geoffroy calls this ‘athletic’ and is proud of having picked later than most. Released in 2014. Delicate but very concentrated too. Round and rich. Quite opulent. Broad and muscular; meaty. (JR)

Disgorged end of 2013. 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir. Dosage 6.5 g/l. Slightly paler than the earlier disgorged version of the 1998. Light hint of torrefaction on the nose but not that struck-match reduction, and actually smells fresher, more citrus and orange peel and it is definitely fuller, broader in the mouth and has more power (as the P in P2 might suggest since it is an abbreviation for plénitude). Creamier and yet the acidity shoots through the middle. A much more extreme wine. Not sure if it is better, just different. Less well integrated, for now. Acidity seems higher. Very long finish. (JH)