Medium salmon-amber colour. Delicate nose of fresh crushed raspberries, white pepper and chompoo / rose apple. The palate is well structured with a nice backbone of crisp acidity providing freshness to the silken texture and judicious amount of toast. Very long finish with lingering hints of fresh ginger. Drink now to 2018. Tasted October 2008.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The 1998 Dom Perignon Rose is a striking, intensely perfumed wine redolent of sweet candied cherries and spices. This medium-bodied wine possesses gorgeous structure, and ideally another year or two of cellaring is warranted in order for the full range of aromas and flavors to emerge. The Dom Perignon Rose is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, with most of the Pinot coming from the south-facing vineyards of Ay. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Moet & Chandon is one of Champagne’s giants when it comes to the sheer number of bottles that emerge from its cellars each year. The house’s top wine, Dom Perignon, is quite possibly the most iconic wine in Champagne, and perhaps the world. Production numbers are always kept close to the vest, but that notwithstanding, it is impossible to ignore the exceptional quality that the best vintages offer. At its best Dom Perignon is also an extremely ageworthy wine. In recent years Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy has instituted a program of re-releasing newly disgorged wines under the OEnotheque program. Younger vintages see a second release (also known as second plenitude), while some of the older, classic vintages from the 1970s are on their third release (also known as third plenitude). While the OEnotheques, particularly the third releases, can be very pricey, at their finest they offer an extraordinary,otherworldly drinking experience matched by few wines in the world. Although Moet & Chandon doesn't disclose disgorgement dates, Geoffroy is considering adding that information in the near future. An article covering a number older vintages of Dom Perignon will appear soon on www.erobertparker.com Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Orange-pink. Redcurrant, cherry, dried flowers, botanical herbs and minerals on the nose. Pliant red fruit and poached pear flavors are lifted by smoky minerals; benefited greatly from aeration, picking up floral pastille and anise qualities. A rather open-knit version of this always complex bottling, finishing with gentle grip and a suave echo of flowers and smoky minerals

Deep orangey salmon pink. Hedonistic and rich though not that fizzy. Almond flavour and masses of pleasure. (JR)