A mind-blowing wine. This is super subtle and intense with aromas of peaches, light strawberry and cream. Also shows rose petal and cooked peaches. Medium to full body, with ultra-fine tannins that feel like fine silk. The finish goes on for mintutes. It floats across the palate. The winemaker says the closest vintage to this is the 1990, but I think this is better. December 2016.

The 2005 Dom Pérignon Rosé is an attractive, persistent wine with plenty of character. Sweet dried cherry, mint and rose petals are some of the many nuances that develop with air. Savory notes that are on the edge of vegetal and a real feeling of tannin from the 27% still red Pinot in the blend give the 2005 a decidedly savory edge. March 2019.

The 2005 is quite a beast with 27 percent red wine. Strong, spicy and firm character, still in a youthful berry exuberant face but lurking to reveal its wild, winey and Burgundian side. Curious sousbois, licorice and smoky tones. Not shy to show its ripe phenolic tones and concentrated, voluptuous qualities. In the same genre with the masculine, vinous 2003. May 2019.

Offering up aromas of orange rind, dried white flowers and fresh pastry mingled with nuances of smoke and iodine, the 2005 Dom Pérignon Rosé is medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with a rich core of fruit complemented by sapid nuances that lend the wine interesting gastronomic potential. Broad, textural and delicately phenolic, it's a successful effort in a challenging Champagne vintage.

And so to the rosés. Red grapes are sourced from 10ha, all specific sites, located from Hautvillers down to Cumières and then in Ay and Verzenay from the great grand cru sites. Vincent says that between 10 and 30% of these red wines are ‘invited’ to join the blend, the challenge being to integrate their very particular aromatics and phenolics into the ensemble. Different decisions have to be made for the rosé, and more time is required before release. In the case of 2005, Chaperon - whose first project upon joining that year was to make the red wine for the rosé - wonders if he included too much Pinot Noir. I respectfully beg to differ: I find everything about the wine attractive, from its nacreous almost luminous hue through to its wonderfully complete mid-palate precision. A Volnay with bubbles.

Mid salmon pink. Still quite tense and introvert on the nose. Opulent fruit – so opulent it almost tastes as though there were a higher dosage, and yet with an energising bitter note on the end. Orange peel. Seductive. Really rather glorious – like a Volnay in its perfume and delicacy, but as substantial as fine red burgundy. (JR)

Dosage 5 g/l. Released in March 2017. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (27% as red wine). Vibrant, youthful and full of attractive stemmy notes as well as fresh red fruit. Loads of flavour on offer – full of personality and longevity. Gets the balance of fruit, autolysis and evolving forest-floor notes spot on. (RH)