Dom Pérignon’s 1996 Rosé P2 is rich, vertical and explosive, with that combination of structure and inner perfume that makes it so alluring and so flat-out delicious.

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé P2 is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass that mingles aromas of dried fruits, raspberries and toasted bread with nuances of rose hips, peonies, smoke and spices. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and complete, with a beautifully integrated spine of acidity, excellent concentration and a vinous profile, concluding with a long and iodine-inflected finish. There's a touch more breadth and dimension here than in the white Dom Pérignon P2 of the same vintage, but the two wines share a strong vintage signature this year.

Dosage 6 g/l. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (18% of which is red wine). Creamy, spicy palate and vibrant red fruit. Still needs a bit of time for the nose to develop. Long and gradual to finish with a savoury, salty flavour. (RH)

We were treated to two bottles of this, of which the second definitely had more fruit and was even relatively rich and persistent. (The first seemed to be drying out and had a note of Campari.) (JR)