Disgorged in July 2014, Francis Egly's 2005 Brut Grand Cru Millésime is a brilliant wine in this middling vintage, bursting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, buttered toast, pear, praline and subtle spices. Full-bodied, muscular and vinous, it's layered and multidimensional, with a rich core of fruit, succulent acids and chalky structuring extract, complemented by a pinpoint mousse. This is a gourmand, gastronomic Champagne in its prime today.

The 2005 Brut Grand Cru Millésime is soft, forward and quite expressive. There is plenty of freshness in the glass, but the wine's mid-weight personality and overall lack of complexity vis-à-vis the best wines here both make me think it is a wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. The lithe, delicate finish is attractive, if a bit out of character for Egly-Ouriet, where the wines are usually richer. Candied lemon, dried apricot, white flowers and mint are some of the signatures. Disgorged: July 2014.

106 months on lees, disgorged mid 2015. Honey and butterscotch aroma. Apricot brioche – smells like a pâtisserie in the best way! Full and rich but so fresh, deeply, richly flavoured wth toasty breadth. Long and satisfying – a meal in itself. And all kept youthful by a sour freshness at the very finish. (JH)

Tense and savoury with weight and intention. Just a little hint of Meursault! Very rewarding and fresher than the 2006. Long. (JR)