We began with the 2007 Brut Vintage from Egly-Ouriet. Without entering the cause célèbre about price hikes, this bottle did explain why it enjoys such a fanatical following. At 17 years of age, it has evolved into a quite entrancing bouquet, a little yeasty, with hints of lemon sherbet and Japanese yuzu, all delivered with captivating delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with a lively spine of acidity, a twist of sour lemon and Clementine and just a trace of viscosity towards the finish. It is drinking perfectly now, and if you can afford it, then lucky you.

The 2007 Brut Millésime Grand Cru is soft, open-knit and quite approachable young, especially for an Egly Champagne. This is an especially pliant, supple Champagne. Dried pear, brioche, mint, chamomile, dried flowers and lightly honeyed notes resonate in the glass. In 2007, the Millésime is 100% Ambonnay fruit. Today, the 2007 gives the impression that it will drink at its best over the near and medium-term, but not necessarily beyond that.