One of the very finest wines produced in this less heralded vintage is Egly's 2014 Brut Grand Cru Millésime, a strikingly vinous and enveloping Champagne that wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, mirabelle plum, freshly baked bread, almond paste and honeycomb. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated mid-palate of exceptional purity and cut, concluding with a long, penetrating and mouthwateringly saline finish. As ever, it's a blend of some 70% Pinot Noir with 30% Chardonnay from Ambonnay's greatest terroirs.

The freshness of the 2014 vintage is felt without any of its slacker, looser characteristics in yet another example of Egly-Ouriet excelling in a variable year. In youth the roasted pear, apricot skin and honey-nut aromas sit still, restrained slightly in gingerbread spice and the firm framing of élevage, ready to spring with two to three years more on cork. A bright and fluid iteration of this wine, likely to hit its sweet spot with five to 10 years on cork. 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Ambonnay, all vinified in barrel.