Some very fine apple and baked pear notes here with grapefruit and fine pithy lemon plus chalky almond paste, gentle spice and blue fruits. The palate has a wealth of powerful fruit on offer; biscuity, lemon and grapefruit citrus, grilled cashews and a long acid drive through the finish supporting concentrated fruit.

Vivid yellow. Suave, expansive aromas of Meyer lemon, yellow peach and smoky minerals, plus a slow-building, toasty lees quality. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering intense citrus and pit fruit flavors that are given lift and spine by bright minerality. Smoothly melds depth with energy, finishing with very good mineral grip and lingering smokiness. Disgorged in September, 2013.

The 2007 Brut Spécial Club wraps around the palate with lovely depth and a pure sense of resonance. Lightly floral notes meld into chamomile, apricot, spice and mint in a soft, foreword Champagne that gives the impression of being built for near-term pleasure. There is plenty of that here. The 2007 is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. Disgorged September 2013. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.