This stylish, complex and elegantly powerful Champagne is the pinnacle of Gosset’s range and delivers such layered, fresh and complex style. The palate has a super smooth-honed, long and plush feel with a wealth of grilled almonds and grapefruit. Long, succulent draw through the finish. Magnificent. Drink now.

The 2007 Celebris Extra Brut is the latest rendition of this cuvée, which cellar master Odilon de Varine describes as "not a vintage Gosset but a Gosset vintage"—meaning that it's produced only in years adapted to the house's powerful but austere style. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, marzipan, warm biscuits and wet stones, it's full-bodied, with a deep and concentrated core of ripe but racy fruit, a tangy spine of acidity and an elegant pinpoint mouse, displaying terrific purity and precision.

With a little more Pinot Noir than its Rosé sibling (57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir), this has been bottled as Extra Brut with 3g/L of sugar. A beguiling and seductive wine, completely à point five or so years after disgorgement, the wine serves as an object lesson to those, should there be any, who enquire why Gosset (historically associated with wood ageing) no longer uses oak and why the house does not put its wines through the second, malolactic fermentation. The wonderful creamy richness can only therefore be a testament to the quality of the fruit, to the careful ageing regime and to the timing of the disgorgement. Very complete and harmonious, the wine boasts citric and honeyed notes, with hints of nougat, lemongrass, butterscotch and dried apricot, and then an attractive nutty finish. An outstanding Champagne which is approachable yet beguilingly subtle; supple and rich, all a function of its eminent eligibility and food matching potential.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.