Such a concise and laser-focused wine with tight layers of crushed stones, praline, frangipani flowers, green apples, lemons, hazelnuts, pastries and salted almonds. Very tight bubbles here. So clear and structured, with a long and mineral finish. Still reserved. 54% chardonnay and 46% pinot noir. 4.8g/L dosage. Drink or hold. July 2023.

The 2008 Extra-Brut Celebris offers up hints of apricot, brioche, baked apple tart, white pepper, chamomile and dried flowers. Extended time on the lees yields a Champagne with terrific flavor and textural complexity. This is an especially deep, vinous Champagne from Gosset. I would prefer to drink it at the dinner table, as it is a very serious wine. November 2022.

Gosset's just-released 2008 Extra-Brut Celebris is showing beautifully out of the gates, offering up sweet aromas of citrus oil, dried white flowers, warm biscuits and nougat, with hints of the dried fruits to come. Medium to full-bodied, racy and layered, with a firm core of fruit that's girdled by tangy acids and a long, penetrating finish, the house's typically tensile style is married with real flesh and weight. William Kelley. November 2022.