A beautifully expressive, vibrant nose packed with floral, fresh and dried fruit and freshly baked pastry characters. The palate is dynamic and laden with energy, balancing toasted lemon, honey and chalky mineral dryness. The dosage is just perfect – dry enough to keep it refreshing but with enough rich fruit to make it very drinkable. This is a seriously grown-up Champagne. A downright gorgeous drop to enjoy in all of its glory now and for a decade+. Excellent. Time for another glass!

Based on the 2015 vintage, the new release of Henriot's NV Blanc de Blancs bursts with expressive aromas of white peach, tangerine, sweet orchard fruit and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and nicely concentrated, with tangy acids and a pearly mousse, this new disgorgement is showing particularly well.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine. There is just enough roundness and generosity to balance the focus of the Chardonnay in this accessible, harmonious Champagne. Hints of butter, smoke and spices wrap around the generous finish. This is Lot L1107221010. Disgorged October 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is a strong set of wines from Henriot. Quality seems to have improved quite a bit over the last few years. Importer: Henriot Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

Riper apple fruit than the Brut Souverain. Fuller on the palate too, with perhaps less overt autolytic character but plenty of persistence and breadth. Chewy texture, firm acidic spine, persistent finish. By all measures, this is an upgrade from their (also delicious) Souverain. (RH)

This constitutes 20% of Henriot's production and contains 12 crus representing 'lots of different facets of Chardonnay' according to chef de cave Alice Tétienne, who says she is seeking 'maturity but freshness'. Richer Chardonnays than usual in 2016, which provided the base wine with 32% reserve wine. This was originally called Blanc Souverain. More focused nose and quite delicately textured. Quite long and frisky. Tastes fresher than the Brut Souverain. (JR)