Revisited after an additional year in bottle, the 2012 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne continues to show brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with notes of golden orchard fruit, dried citrus peel, tarte tatin, warm spices, walnuts and toasted bread. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's vinous and multidimensional, with superb concentration, racy acids and a delicate pinpoint mousse. Seamless and integrated, it's still an infant and will reward further bottle age.

The 2012 Argonne is superb. It is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay vinified in 100% new oak, which is barely perceptible. Silky, nuanced and incredibly refined, the 2012 opens to reveal layers of Mirabelle, dried flowers, orange zest and apricot. The interplay of Aÿ richness and more mineral inflections makes for an absolutely compelling Champagne. Unlike most releases of Argonne, the 2012 needs a few years in bottle to be at its best. Today, it is decidedly taut, but impressive just the same. (Originally published in August 2020)

Handsome sloping-shouldered bottle and their signature agrafe (clip over the cork). Bottle 4,741. 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. Giraud's cuvée based on wine fermented and aged in oak from the nearby Argonne forest. Broad , very distinctive aromas in which the local Argonne oak plays a part. Light copper colour. Extremely delicate bead – a real pleasure that caresses the palate. Some of the same mushroomy aromas as I pick up on a typical mature wine from Aÿ neighbours Bollinger. And great, playful interplay of different, vibrant elements on the palate. This wine is delicious now. Fruit is not the thing here! Rich but not sweet. (JR)