The 2013 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne is the latest in a series of superb releases from Giraud. Unwinding in the glass with notes of buttered toast, crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, warm spices and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, deep and vinous, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, incisive acids and an elegant pearly mousse. Long and penetrating, it's finer-boned than its richer, more muscular 2012 predecessor; but like that more structured wine, it will reward bottle age.

The 2013 Argonne is a typical Giraud Champagne built on textural opulence and vinous intensity. Apricot, nutmeg, spice, honey vanillin and new oak infuse the 2013 with striking dimension. Vinification and aging in 100% new oak exalts the natural richness of these old, south-facing vineyards in Aÿ. This is a fabulous showing for a vintage that saw quite a bit of rain and disease pressure right before harvest. As always, Argonne is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: December 15, 2020. (Originally published in May 2021)

The producer thinks this is superior to the 2012. Let's see… Not yet released. Glowing pale coper colour. It's certainly more savoury and lifted than the 2012 – and tighter with more tension. And more life ahead of it with real line and still lots of chewiness. Very racy indeed. Quite hard to believe this is informed by Pinot Noir. But there is a great undertow. (JR)