The 2016 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne stands as the pinnacle of superb releases from Champagne Henri Giraud. Evoking aromas of apricot, mirabelle, licorice, anise, ripe orchard fruits and spices, it's full-bodied, rich and vinous, with a deep, concentrated core of fruit and sappy acids, concluding with a long, penetrating, racy finish enhanced by aromas of gentian and sweet spices. A blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay from the grand cru village of Aÿ, vinified and matured in barrels, it was disgorged in February 2023. Kudos!

Aged entirely in new oak and sourced from four to five estate-owned parcels in Aÿ, the 2016 Aÿ Grand Cru Argonne was disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter and has turned out very well. It ascends from the glass with notes evocative of woodsmoke, apricot, mirabelle plum, sandalwood and toasted bread, mingling with exotic spices. Composed from the most acid-driven press fraction—the heart of the cuvée—and patinated by its élevage in wood, the wine is full-bodied, layered and chiseled, with a concentrated fruit core, incisive acidity and a long, delicately oak-inflected finish. The perception of new oak—whether seductive or divisive, in the context of this cuvée—inevitably varies from palate to palate; for some, Argonne may represent the most captivating wine in the range, while for others, when encountered in its youth, it may appear rather enigmatic.