Henriot's newly released 2006 Brut Cuvée Hemera is showing very nicely, offering up aromas of wheat toast, crisp stone fruit, dried white flowers, smoke and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, rich and enveloping, with a generous core of fruit, bright acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a mouthwateringly sapid finish. The cuvée's rather reductive style marries well with the inherent opulence of the vintage, and it marks a notable step up over the inaugural 2005 in depth and concentration.

Aged 12 years on lees. 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay. Distinctly musty nose, there is clearly lots of age and oxidation to the fruit here. Very persistent and grand. Clearly from top-quality raw material, although there is something almost overwhelming about the power and that mature, mushroomy character. For lovers of old champagne – the umami army? – this is a treat. I'd drink it soon. (RH)

This has replaced Cuvée des Enchanteleurs, called after the goddess of light. Three grands crus (50/50 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay) from each of the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs: Mailly, Verzy, Verzenay plus Chouilly, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger. Joseph Henriot asked winemaker Alice Tétienne's predecessor Laurent Fresnet to make their prestige cuvée more in the style of Henriot – lighter than of old. (The old style was described as a bit of a UFO in the Henriot galaxy.) Earlier-picked fruit. Launched with 2005. Three months' worth of rain in a fortnight in midsummer. Disgorged 2019. Mid greenish gold. Rather low-key nose. Lovely gentle texture and balance and nice dry/bitter finish but I'm finding it difficult to sense the aroma. Hint of damp cement on the end – or do I mean chalky?! It's certainly light – as the house wishes – but it doesn't seem to me to have a particularly strong character. Though the finish is neat. I'm afraid I am underwhelmed – or perhaps just overwhelmed by the Henriot Blanc de Blancs based on 2014 tasted immediately beforehand. (JR)