Complexity is the watchword of 2008, reflected by the fact that Alice Tétienne is unable to pick a single ‘leading’ cru to define its characteristics; in fact, the wine boasts both the purity and luminosity of the Chardonnay village of Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, and at the same time the generosity and latent power of the Pinot Noir which comes from the grand cru of Verzenay. Only disgorged four months previously, the wine is reticent, but only up to a point. One can already discern the seductive marriage of power and elegance which looks set to inform its future. Rapier acidity already sits comfortably with well-upholstered fruit and the combination lends intimations of a long and happy evolution. Disgorged: November 2022. Dosage: 5g/L.

Dried flowers, dusty chalk, hazelnuts, hints of licorice, white pepper, dried apples and dried pineapples on the nose, with underlying Meyer lemon character. Sleek and elegant, with very fine bubbles and a zesty and vibrant finish. 50% each chardonnay and pinot noir from the six founding crus. 5g/L dosage. Disgorged November 2022. Drink or hold.

A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, the 2008 Brut Cuvée Hemera has a lively first nose of candied lemon and hints of lime and smoke, with aromas of quince, apple and spring flowers. With aeration, notes of almonds and almond flowers come to the fore. On the palate, there is a nervy tension that energizes its fine, crystalline texture. This is an upright and elegant Champagne with a mouthwateringly long, airy finish. After some time in the glass, it evolves toward notes of smoke, flint, chalk and vanilla. It will drink at its peak in three years.

Opulent and old-fashioned with its rich smoky autolytic tones. Super-toasty, super-tasty. Dense apple fruit to match. Long, classical, rich, mature – a superstar. (RH)