A superb Champagne and still youthful. Honey, ginger, lemon confit, coffee and mineral aromas and flavors come to mind, all kept focused by a firm, tightly wound structure. The finish is where its pedigree shines through, lingering like warm gingerbread and coffee. Drink now through 2015.

It's that time again! How do they do it? Together with Rémi Krug I first tasted this '88 beside the unbelievably good '89 and could hardly believe my taste buds when they sent the message that the '88 was even better. At Krug they themselves compare the wine with the '81, the '55, and the '61. Personally, I compare it to the '66 and the ultra elegant '79. The finesse is unbeatable and the acidity very noticeable. This is a wine that is going to be enjoyed by our grandchildren. Most people probably discourage immediate consumption of this young wine, but I am of a different opinion. I believe that a little bit of the subtle feeling of “tears of joy” disappears when the wine matures. I hope this explains the unusually stingy point differential between today's points and the potential maximum rating.