After the 1995, 1996, 1998 and 2000 vintages, the 2002 Blanc de Noirs Brut Clos d’Ambonnay is the fifth edition of this splendid but rare and expensive Pinot Noir. Sourced in a tiny, walled 0.68-hectare (1.7-acre) plot on a deep stratum of chalk, the 2002 offers a deep, ripe and highly elegant nose with very fine cherry and red fruit aromas in the beautifully vinous Krug style. On the palate, the 2002 is terribly fresh and finessed, highly aromatic and very mineral, with great structure and a very, very long and tensioned finish. This is a taut and expressive yet highly finessed Clos d'Ambonnay that is shining brighter and becoming more and more complex the more time it has to breathe. Breathtaking maturity, creaminess and a brioche-flavored taste of dried and candied fruit characterizes this mouthfillingly round and intense Clos d’Ambonnay whose vinous charm and depth is teasingly attractive. Tasted in Reims, April 2018.

The 2002 Clos d'Ambonnay is another spectacular Champagne from Krug. In fact, the 2002 may very well be the most sensual Clos d'Ambonnay yet. Opulent, intense and yet light on its feet, the 2002 has it all. Hints of ash, graphite and smoke wrap around a core of rich Pinot fruit in a powerful, riveting wine of the highest level. Chef de Caves Eric Lebel describes 2002 as a perfect growing season. “We had sun we wanted it and rain we needed it,” he told me recently. The Krug team captured everything the vintage had to offer, certainly to a far greater degree than they did with the 2002 Clos du Mesnil or Vintage. Readers who can find the 2002 Clos d'Ambonnay and who can look past the price will experience a seriously phenomenal Champagne. That's all there is to it.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

ID 415067. Bottled when Clos d’Ambonnay was still an unreleased experiment. The first vintage, 1995, was released in 2007. Half of the 0.34-ha (0.84-acre) plot, hardly enough to fill a full press, has been replanted ‘the Krug way’. Quite a bit of age, though more on the side of big and bold than subtle nuance. Firm finish. Very long indeed. (JR)

The bouquet has a magnificent classicism to it, comprising notes of yellow fruits, spices including white pepper, flowers and a mineral edge. With aeration, scents of menthol emerge from the glass. The palate is upright in character, but elegant and crystalline, with a long, structured finish of chalky density. A Champagne having both thrust, tension and aerial lightness in which finesse and power are allies. A masterpiece. Krug Chef de Cave Julie Cavil said 2002 was 'the last classic year in Champagne, one without extreme elements and with optimal ripeness obtained step by step'.100% Pinot Noir from 0.68ha located in the village of Ambonnay. Dosage: 4g/l.