Entirely crafted from Pinot Noir sourced in a single parcel of Clos d'Ambonnay, Krug's 2006 Blanc de Noirs Brut Clos d’Ambonnay is one of my favorite vintages at this address. Evoking aromas of spices, smoke, white fruits, brioche, pastry, dried herbs, plum and ripe orchard fruits, it possesses a full-bodied, round and charming mid-palate framed by a crystalline and pure texture. It has a delicately phenolic mid-palate and pinpoint mousse that leads to a long, mineral and saline finish marked by subtle iodine notes and gastronomic bitterness. Classic and precise, this is purity and elegance incarnate. Though already superb, readers should be patient to enjoy this Champagne at its peak.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Clos d'Ambonnay from the 2006 vintage is drinking beautifully now, flexing its muscles by combining comforting aromas of Porcini mushroom, sweet hay, rice and toasted buckwheat with the laser force of lemony acidity, lemon jam and salty seaweed. Hugely powerful, driving across the palate with energy and a waft of sea breeze. Only 4,514 bottles and 800 magnums of 2006 were made, and this is only the sixth release since 1995. Harvest of the Clos d'Ambonnay vineyard was on 21 September that year.

From that tiny 0.68-ha walled plot in the middle of the village that produced affordable wine until Krug snapped it up in order to make the first wine in 1995. This wine was the last bottled before they announced the acquisition in 2007 (although presumably some of the locals realised what was going on?). Released in August 2023, the product of a hot July and a wet early August. This was the year Julie Cavil, now chef de cave, joined the house and she called the vintage 'a champagne miracle'. The nose is till a bit solid and stodgy rather than exhibiting the ethereal nature of so many fine champagnes. It finishes a bit suddenly too. Perhaps I am prejudiced against it because the combination of its rarity and Krug's reputation has resulted in such a high price. Compare and contrast with Krug 2006 and the Grande Cuvée based on the same vintage … (JR)