Tasting Notes and Scores
eRobertParker.com November, 2013 Krugâs 1989 Brut Krug Collection represents their most recent in a long-running series of late-releases that feature a vintage they have decided is especially expressive after entering what they refer to as its âsecond life.â In theory, if you have ideal cellar conditions and bought Krugâs initial disgorgement of the 1989 vintage when it came on the market around a decade ago, then you have essentially the same wine today, though I have never been lucky enough to make the relevant direct comparison. Given the relative infrequency with which a vintage is âdeclaredâ by Krug, their âCollectionâ bottlings represent the remnants of an already elite band. But this 1989 represents the first re-release from the only series of three consecutive vintage bottlings â 1988-1990 â in Krugâs history. The mingling of saline, nutty, and caramelized notes in the nose â adumbrating this wineâs entire performance â is gorgeous. Butter-toasted hazelnuts, dried wild mushrooms, kelp, and cocoa mingle in a silken, mouthwateringly saline and savory matrix reminiscent of oyster liquor laced with fresh lemon juice (because, there is still a youthfully citric store of energy here). This finishes with correspondingly pronounced umami and with tangy vibrancy of citrus and salt. After a day open, the nutty elements become more piquant and walnut-like, but the smoky hints of oxidation remain balanced by citric and mineral elements and positively integrated into a mysteriously diverse show. The palate becomes plusher (perhaps in part due to diminishing mousse) and creamy in an almost whipped-cream fashion, yet the long finish continues to offer uncanny refreshment. Certainly this can be safely held for at least a few more years and perhaps in an ideal cellar will âplateauâ (or continue to). Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 30/11/2012 The 1989 Brut Collection is all of the things a gorgeous, mature Champagne should be. Autumn leaves, tobacco, mint, licorice, dried pears and sweet, exotic spices all waft from the glass in this totally complete, layered wine. The 1989 is a big, huge wine, rather it is a Champagne that impresses with exceptional overall balance and total finesse. I have had the 1989 Collection several times, but this is by far the finest bottle I have run across. When Krug is firing on all cylinders, there really is no substitute. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. (96)
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