Revisited from the October 2019 disgorgement, Larmandier-Bernier's 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize continues to show brilliantly, offering up complex aromas of argan oil, fresh apricot and crisp yellow orchard fruit, complemented by hints of fresh walnuts and almond paste. Full-bodied, deep and vinous, it's layered and elegantly fleshy, with a concentrated core of ripe fruit, racy acids and a long, mineral finish. As I wrote last year, Pierre Larmandier invariably excels in cool, late-growing seasons, so the 2013 vintage was perfectly adapted to his talents.

100% Chardonnay from two old-vine plots in the heart of Avize. In 2009 they bought a smaller press so that they could separate the juice from the two plots: Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny. Poor soil with a chalk seam. Vines average 50 years old. Lightly clarified juice goes into wooden vats and casks. Spontaneous fermentation, natural malo. Young wines are aged on lees and unfined, unfiltered. Sur lattes for seven years. Disgorged by hand. Dosage 2 g/l. Remarkably floral on the nose. Pear flower, wild-meadow flowers. Bone dry, almost iron-like, earth and rust, storm-battered sea shells. So salty! Like licking a cliff face. Quinine. Uncompromising but at the same time, far from unapproachable. Cumin. Caraway. Like looking at the sky through salt crystals. A wine that needs attention, full attention, deserves time in the glass, a quiet space, contemplation from the drinker (and not a noisy tasting room!). (TC)