The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize opens in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, fresh pasty, vanilla pod and fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chalky, with a vinous, rather concentrated profile and bright acids, it's a little compact out of the gates but appears to be built to age with grace.

Certified organic and biodynamic. Vinified in oak casks and vats. I love the herby aromatic dancing-away top notes of this wine – it's like breathing in a handful of napeta and lavender. Quite white-wine-like; it reminds me a little of an aged, barrel-fermented Lugana! Concentrated, the fruit buried deep, and thrumming with urgent life and power. Bouquet garni, wild flowers, quince skin and lime leaf. Flint and petrol contours shape the long-lasting finish. (TC)