A blend of the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #26 is just coming onto the market. Wafting from the glass with notes of nectarine, peach and ripe citrus fruits mingled with notions of freshly baked bread, buttered toast, nougat, white flowers and clear honey, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a deep and rather broad-shouldered core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids and animated by a classy pinpoint mousse. This suave, complex three-vintage blend is the Grande Marque prestige cuvée par excellence. This bottle was disgorged in February 2023 with seven grams per liter dosage. William Kelley. Drinking 2023-2042.

Powerful aroma of orange peel and something in the putty/chalk spectrum. It somehow manages to be both tight yet approachable, dense in terms of flavour concentration yet filigree in terms of texture. As usual, it's so Chardonnay! Overriding citrus character and quite amazingly long, a mouthful tingling on the palate for minutes not seconds. Enormous finesse. Massive pleasure. This would make the most luxurious aperitif. Michel Fauconnet, having welcomed the new chef de cave in January 2023, must be especially proud of this wine.

This is really something. Electric on the palate. The aromas are so complex with sliced fresh and dried ginger, subtle pie crust, tarte tatin and hints of nutmeg with some salted caramel. Toasted bread, too. Always subtle. The palate is full- to medium-bodied yet hemmed-in with a freshness and balance that draws you back. Savory and vibrant. It's full of energy. Spectacular. Fascinating. Symphonic blend of 2012, 2008 and 2007. 65% of the 2012, 25% of the 2008 and 10% of the 2007. Eight grand cru. Chardonnay 58% and 42% pinot noir. Disgorged February 2023. 10 years on the lees. 7g/L dosage. Drink or hold.