A classic Cristal that is sometimes more open and a bit fatter than the '89, but is mostly a bitingly acidity, unreleased wine. There is the same delightful aromatic spectrum, with Roederer's typical toffee tone and rich but varied fruit. Big bottle variation probably due to the partial avoidance of malolactic fermentation. Absolutely wonderful lately.

Blending 62% Pinot Noir with 38% Chardonnay, fermented without malolactic and disgorged in 1996 after five years sur lie, the 1990 Cristal is still a superb and amazing prestige Champagne that is far from being over-matured or faded. The wine is as rich as it is pure and finessed, revealing a mineral tension and youthful freshness that is nothing short of stunning given the low-acidity vintage. This proves impressively that substance and terroir matter far more than just acidity. Tasted in May 2018, the 1990 is still fabulous. Even the 1979 Cristal was still excitingly fresh but unfortunately corked.

Roederer’s 1990 Cristal showed great balance in the opulent style of the vintage, even if this bottle wasn’t representative of how profound the wine can be.

Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon's first vintage when the Pinots were outstanding. Deep orange gold. So rich and full and exotic. Dried tropical fruits. Not that frothy. Hint of coconut. Still very much alive and well. (JR)