Roederer's 1999 Cristal Vinothèque is endowed with tremendous power and concentration, especially for a Champagne of its age. Palate staining minerals, chalk, white pepper, mint, citrus and orchard fruit soar out of the glass. Tasted next to the Rosé the Blanc has a slightly more toasty character along with more body and a stronger presence of the mousse, which in this wine wraps around the fruit. At the time, Cristal was made from 37 parcels. The Pinots were a blend from Aÿ (where the wines are naturally riper) and Verzenay, Verzy and Beaumont-sur-Vesle, (where Pinots are nervy and taut), while the Chardonnay was sourced from Avize, Mesnil and Cramant. Dosage is 7-8 grams per liter. Disgorged in 2016.

Disgorged with six grams per liter dosage after seven years sur lattes and a further seven sur pointe, the 1999 Cristal Vinothèque wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of dried fruits, clear honey and crushed chalk aromas, complemented by hints of iodine and woodsmoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with ripe but lively acids and a textural, gourmand profile, concluding with a beautifully defined, elegantly chalky finish.

Magnum. To be launched in 2020. Disgorged in 2014. Lécaillon's first vintage as chef de cave. Seven years on latte and seven years sur pointe. When picked it was the lowest acid vintage since 1959, before 2003 came along. 58% Pinot Noir. Just a bit sweet. But long and rich. (JR)