Disgorged in July 2021, Péters's just-released 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with scents of ripe citrus fruits, crisp green and yellow orchard fruit, white flowers and subtle hints of freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, it's seamless and concentrated, its elegantly fleshy core of fruit underpinned by a racy spine of acidity and animated by a pretty pinpoint mousse; it concludes with a long, mineral finish. Readers will have a lot of fun comparing the 2014 with the more tightly wound 2013 in a decade's time.

A comparative tasting of neighbouring vineyards, Les Montjolys and Les Chétillons reminds one of the tortoise and the hare. Les Chétillons is incredibly reserved at first, but with a little air and a little time, spring flowers take boom, then hawthorns and acacia appear and even a hint of white pepper calls from behind the chalky foundations. The wine grows on the palate too, and what starts as austerity slowly but surely is transformed by the rigour of an innate and enviable complexity.