Unwinding in the glass with scents of sweet orchard fruit, peach, honeycomb, warm biscuits and dried fruits, the 2017 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Millésime L’Esprit de 2017 is medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with fine concentration, racy acids and a long, saline finish. Péters describes the vintage in the Côte de Blancs—which suffered less than sectors where Pinot predominates—as "a precursor of 2019," in the sense that small yields attained elevated maturity without losing freshness; and this Champagne does indeed transcend simplistic generalizations about the vintage.

The L'Esprit de 2017 is a surprising wine, in a very good way. Deep and wonderfully layered, the 2017 possesses tremendous depth and textural resonance. Tangerine peel, spice, brioche, baked apple and more exotic tropical accents all open with a bit of time in the glass. Disgorged: July 2022. Dosage is 4.7 grams per liter.