Disgorged in December 2022 after 12 years on the lees in the bottle, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chétillons Oenothèque comes from a vintage of high maturity, the first year ever when Péters partially blocked malolactic fermentation. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of candied tangerine peel, pastries, spices and toasted hazelnuts, it’s the wine that is aromatically open but structurally compact. Although Péters was expecting it to be more expressive, it was performing very well, exhibiting complexity that arrives with time, after long aging under cork. Medium to full-bodied, vibrant and precise, it is multifaceted, with considerable concentration, energy and a long, sapid finish. There is no crime to enjoy this Oenothèque release immediately, though with a dosage of 5.7 grams per liter, one may safely consider laying down the bottles for the future.