A last minute addition to this tasting, courtesy of a dear friend, the 1992 Clos des Goisses is a towering masterpiece. It's as simple as that. Huge and exotic on the palate, the 1992 is the first wine in this tasting that shows what mature Goisses is all about. The flavors are intense and Pinot dominated, while the sense of phenolic weight is impossible to miss. This is the essence of Clos des Goisses.

(disgorged April 2005) This vintage was made by Norbert Thiébert, who retired in 1998. When first released, Clos des Goisses 1993 had seemed significantly superior, but the 1992 crept ahead about five years ago, and their relative qualities have been endorsed by this tasting. Different dates of disgorgement are primarily responsible for the variable performances of the four bottles and two magnums we tasted, and they will all be great Champagnes if given at least seven years post-disgorgement ageing under ideal conditions. The blend is 30% Chardonnay and 70% Pinot Noir, with a dosage of 4.3g/l.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Light gold color, with a fine mousse. Pungent aromas of apple, poached pear, cherry pit, blond tobacco and loamy earth, lifted by a topnote of bitter lemon. Offers very good depth on the palate, showing concentrated flavors of apple pie, singed orange and buttery toffee. This boasts good energy on the back, which enlivens the wine's deep, maturing flavors. A very successful and vinous Champagne from this difficult vintage.

Deeper colour than most. Tingly exciting nose. Extremely zesty, tight and electric. Very fine with a refreshing green streak. Particularly complete and perfect to drink now. (JR)