The 1999 Clos des Goisses flows from the glass with the essence of minerals, chalk, smoke ash, white peaches, pears, flowers and sweet oak. This is a muscular, powerful wine that needs serious bottle age to come around, yet it possesses striking clarity and detail in its aromatics and flavors. Clos des Goisses is one of the most rewarding wines to drink when mature, and I have no doubt this will be another splendid version. This refined, sumptuous wine is not to be missed. Clos des Goisses is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, and 30% of the wine was fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007.

(disgorged March 2007) Green-gold. Explosive bouquet of musky yellow fruits, cherry pit, toasted grain and minerals; there's something Jura-like about this. Deep, palate-staining mirabelle, peach pit and poached pear flavors are complicated by anise and bitter cherry skin, showing excellent grip. Finishes long and spicy, with excellent breadth. Remarkably complex and singular Champagne, with as much character as any wine I've tried in a long time, from anywhere.

(a 70% pinot, 30% chardonnay blend from a single vineyard that sees some oak; tasted from magnum). A wonderfully delicate and pure nose that is understated yet superbly classy with discreet yeast and green apple notes where the aromas are beginning to reveal only the initial hints of maturity and are followed by complex and equally understated flavors that are an exercise in finesse and balance. A “Zen” Clos des Goisses and one that should age for a very long time in this format. While the ’99 is not one of the truly great vintages of Clos des Goisses, it’s pretty impressive all the same. 2011+

Surprisingly delicate in body for its vintage, this shows complex, developed notes of white mushroom, marzipan, toasted brioche and golden raisin, yet it’s all held in taut suspension by a brilliant, chalk-driven structure. It’s fully evolved in flavour while not yet being past its best, and while it’s terrific now, there’s probably no rush to consume it. Disgorged: June 2011.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.