(made from two-thirds pinot noir and one-third chardonnay; disgorged June, 2010): Yellow-gold. Heady aromas of poached pear, floral honey, quince paste and musky flowers, with a smoky mineral overtone. Rich but energetic and focused, offering mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors and suggestions of tarragon, vanilla and brioche. Plays power off finesse, finishing with excellent clarity and stony persistence. The 2003 version of this Champagne is showing a flamboyant streak right now, with abundant flavors of orchard and pit fruits and a sexy vanilla nuance. I'd enjoy this lush, expansive wine over the next few years but have no doubt that it will continue to age positively. The 2001 Clos des Goisses, which I sampled three times this year, is showing an exotic, nutty character and seems fully mature, to my taste. I suspect that the nuttiness will become more prominent over the coming years and that's a quality that gives me pause when considering this Champagne's aging curve. Fans of that style will demur, of course, and might enjoy this bottling even more in another five years or so.

Philipponnat's 2000 Clos des Goisses is an excellent choice for drinking today, as there is less upside than in some of the other surrounding vintages. This is a distinctly savory Goisses with more than enough phenolic weight and richness to support many years of cellaring, although I do not expect to see a lot of improvement from here. Hints of sage and mint add nuance on the close. The 2000 is a beautiful and highly expressive Goisses, but its place in the hierarchy of vintages is quite apparent in this epic tasting. Disgorged October 2009.

Although this has the ripeness of the 1990, it is much tighter and more precise and the aroma more spicy – showing those ginger notes that have appeared on several vintages as well as a greener celery-seed character. Then it fans out more broadly on the finish without losing that bright citrus core. With time the aroma becomes more woody/cedary and that ginger note deepens. Intense and mouthwatering aftertaste. (JH)