This reflects its vintage in its pronounced colour, as well as in its full, generous aromas. It’s creamy and toasty, with a hint of liquorice under the dark, earthy fruit flavours and it feels big and bold, almost chewy on the mid-palate. On the finish, though, it balances its girth with both chalk and acidity, showing a lot of complexity and nuance. This should age well, and I’m interested in seeing how it will develop with another decade, or even two, in bottle. Disgorged: October 2012. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2039
Tasted by: Peter Liem (at Malmö, Sweden, 12 Dec 2023)
Part of Philipponnat: An 'astounding' Clos des Goisses 1978-2014 vertical

The 2003 Clos de Goisses is hands down one of the most pleasant surprises of this very challenging harvest. An open, floral bouquet leads to voluptuous, expressive fruit in a Champagne that stands out for its exceptional balance. Clos ds Goisses is always quite vinous in style, and that is very much the case in 2003 as well. A creamy, intense wine, the 2003 Goisses is drop-dead gorgeous. Licorice, smoke, honey, chamomile, and graphite are some of many notes that open up over time, lending an air of exoticism that is irresistible. Clos des Goisses has a stellar track record of aging. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what time brings to the 2003. Production was just 6,000 bottles as opposed to the more typical 22,000-25,000. For that sacrifice, Charles Philipponnat was rewarded with an exceptional Clos des Goisses. This bottle was disgorged in August 2012.

This reflects its vintage in its pronounced colour, as well as in its full, generous aromas. It’s creamy and toasty, with a hint of liquorice under the dark, earthy fruit flavours and it feels big and bold, almost chewy on the mid-palate. On the finish, though, it balances its girth with both chalk and acidity, showing a lot of complexity and nuance. This should age well, and I’m interested in seeing how it will develop with another decade, or even two, in bottle. Disgorged: October 2012.

Pale gold in colour. Fine Mousse. Rich, round, full nose of citrus and tropical fruit with a touch of underlying autolysis. Great power in the mouth with piercing acidity - how is this possible from 2003? Absolutely delicious and will drink now (with decanting) and evolve effortlessly for 30+ years.

(70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay; disgorged August, 2012): Bright gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, orange pith, honey and anise, with a smoky mineral topnote. Rich and broad but lively as well, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a note of bitter lemon rind. The mineral quality comes back on the finish, which shows a chewy texture and suave floral character.

Something very aromatically medicinal on the nose. Falls away a bit on the end. Rich but past its peak, I’d say, even though there is lots of pleasure to be had. Quite long. (JR)