This is unusual as it’s the first release of Clos des Goisses to be made entirely of Pinot Noir. I’ve had positive experiences with this wine in the past, but this example is strongly marked by the vegetal character of the vintage, with savoury notes of green bean, celery and asparagus. It’s ample in body and forward in presence, and it feels long and harmonious on the palate, but in this tasting it’s marred by its vintage – as always, though, your response will depend on your sensitivity to the vintage character. Disgorged: October 2020.

100% Pinot Noir. Disgorged March 2020. Dosage 4.5 g/l. Bright copper colour. Very savoury, dense, dry nose. Tight bead and more than a little pungency on the finish. So long and intense. Still quite tightly packed in, so that the finish is positively electric! This is stunning with some vibrant green-vegetation notes. Note the much higher alcohol than is usual for champagne. This just goes on and on and is all youthful pleasure. So many waves of rich minerality. Up there with the best. (JR)