The 1997 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a stunning Champagne, with aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, honeycomb, pastry, ripe orchard fruits and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s perfectly balanced with an enveloping core of fruit and a delicate mousse. It concludes with an elegantly vinous profile and a long, sapid finish. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next five to 10 years.

A current release made before Charles Philipponnat took over. He observed that he would have picked the grapes slightly riper and fermented them slightly warmer, adding 'but it's still very good now', proving that Clos des Goisses can transcend vintage and vinification. Still extremely tense and racy with a note of ginger. A little shorter than the Clos des Goisses bottlings but really full and broad on the mid palate. Well done! (JR)