The 1998 Clos des Goisses ‘L.V.’ displays a fascinating nose of candied fruit and orange peel accompanied by hints of toast and smoke. The palate is deep and layered with aromas of stone fruit, lemon confit, brioche and spices. It is very typical of the 1998 vintage showing of the remarkable liveliness and finesse of the Chardonnays and robustness of the Pinot Noirs. This wonderful Clos des Goisses can be enjoyed now but will keep aging beautifully for years to come.

Disgorged in March 2023, the 1998 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. matured for 25 months in bottle and on lees. It reveals a brilliant, complex and intense bouquet with aromas of white pepper, smoke, orange peel, pastry, ripe fruits and flowers intertwined with a refreshing, delicate note of menthol. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and chiseled, it’s concentrated and racy with bright acids and an endless finish. Fully mature, it should age well over the next two to three years. This is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay.

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (LV stands for longue vieillissement or long ageing.) Disgorged March 2023. Savoury nose and marked acidity with some salinity and seaweed character and a dry finish. Long, and more forward than more recent bottlings of this cuvée tend to be. Tense and rather thrilling. (JR)