Just a joy. Pure delight. There's no escaping this Champagne's warmth, charisma and charm, so intense is the aromatic display and so complex the palate. The wine rides on its concentration, a rising tide of passionfruit, candied lemon, sugared almonds and praline. It's delectable: toasted rye bread, cinnamon butter, caramelised nuts and a driving saline finish. With air come notes of coffee and mocha and the richness of tropical fruit. Large and alive and here for the long haul.

A gorgeous wine that's a legend in the making, the 2002 Rare Brut is a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, with just under 10 grams of dosage. Offering incredible notes of stone fruits, brioche, white flowers, and hints of toasted nuts, this flat out awesome wine is concentrated and opulent, yet still dances on the palate with vibrant acidity and great, great finish. It's going to drink beautifully for another two to three decades. Bravo! This cuvee has only been made in 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998, 1999, 2002, and in 2007.

Disgorged early 2018. Stocks are just coming to an end. According to Chef de Cave Régis Camus, 2002 is a vintage with lots of richness. Rich because of 2001. ‘In 2002 there were two vintages in one which explains its richness.’ The mousse seems less fine than the old Charles Heidsiecks we have just been tasting. Straw gold. Intense and rather Dom Pérignon-like on the nose. Then on the palate it’s amazingly rich and tropical. Before slimming down into the corset of freshness. Lots of potential and tight and tense. (JR)