The 2008 Champagne Rare is luxurious with aromas of graham cracker, honeysuckle, quince, and orange zest. It is round and opulent, with a fine and pillowy mousse, and retains freshness throughout, with apricot and yellow flowers. It is impressive and long, and fully luxurious. Drinking well now, it is sure to hold its own for years to come. Drink 2022-2044. Emilien Boutillat took over as Chef de Cave for Regis Camus in 2018. A native to Champagne, Mr. Boutillat has a versatile background in winemaking, having worked for several wineries across the globe, including at such prestigious estates as Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux and Peter Michael in Sonoma, California. He also spent time in Chile, Châteauneuf du Pape, and Franschhoek, South Africa, where he made Cap Classique (sparkling wines). There are several exciting new releases from the house, including the most recent, the second release of Hors-Serie from 1982. This is a reinterpretation of the previously released cuvée Sauvage, except disgorged 30 years later in 2022. Mr. Boutillat also selected to use wine from magnums of Piper-Heidsieck 1982 to top up the bottles of Hors-Serie after disgorgement, as the liqueur d’expedition. There were 2500 bottles produced, and the house is putting together 500 gift packs that will offer a side by side of the 1982 Brut Sauvage and the 1982 Hors-Serie. These two unique expressions are a treat to taste simultaneously, though they offer very different applications at the table.

A structured and powerful vintage that is superbly balanced. Toasted coconut, grey wisps of smoke and crushed stones overlay mango and pineapple, vanilla and spice. The finish is so salty, mouthfilling, surging, expansive and growing in the mouth until it folds up neatly on a chalky citrus finish. A fresh and cool vintage that has produced some exceptional wines. Tasted from magnum.

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Rare, now re-baptized as "Rare Champagne," continues to evolve at a glacial pace. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity and a pretty pinpoint mousse, but much in the way of texture or amplitude has yet to emerge. While I continue to think that this has the makings of a very attractive bottling, continued patience is advised.

Magnum. 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. See notes on the 2008 75-cl size. Much more complex and evolved nose than the 75-cl size – with notes of greenery and putty and even more depth on the palate. If you are entertaining a large party, I strongly counsel serving from magnum rather than two regular bottles. Very neat and mineral rather than opulent and fruity. No rough edges! (JR)